Wildflower is published quarterly by the Wildflower Center. Its content is national in scope with articles about the conservation and use of native plants as well as news from the Wildflower Center. A subscription is provided to Wildflower Center members as a benefit of membership.

How to propagate spring wildflowers
Article and photography by Jane Rogers
PASTEL-GREEN LEAVES UNFOLD, migrating birds chirp and tiny bursts of color dot the woods – spring is returning again! Botanist Dr. William Gambill wrote in "Born in the Spring" of the botanical drama that occurs in heavily wooded country as spring "blotted out the damp and dark of winter and allowed the blessed greenness of reawakening plant life to spread slowly over the land."
Now that I've matured into a native plant enthusiast, I want that greenness of spring in my own woods.
I'm embarrassed to admit that as a beginning gardener I yanked up a yellowish clump of fading trilliums thinking they marred the beauty of my first home. Even a decade later, when I'd learned to love natives, I made mistakes. I over-groomed my new woodland garden and now realize I was even weeding out trillium seedlings!
Now I respect, admire and value each native in my woods and have added hundreds of plants, all grown from seed. Plus, I've finally learned to distinguish a seedling from a weed!
As I've expanded my woodland garden, I've discovered that woodland species are trickier to propagate than most. They often have specific germination requirements, and some (like trilliums) take many years to reach maturity. As I watch woodlands being developed, I understand how protecting and propagating wildflowers is an important conservation effort. It's a win-win – producing more plants and conserving them, too.

FOLLOW THESE GUIDELINES to propagate spring-blooming woodland natives. Visit www.wildflower.org/explore to learn the native range of these plants and for growing requirements.
·Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum)
has green or maroon hood-like flowers or
spathes and stalks of red berries. Seeds
mature in late summer or fall to a dull-white.
To plant, wear protective gloves, remove
berry skins, soak seeds, rub away orange
residue and plant 1 inch deep. Single leaf
seedlings form in one year. The same
method is used for green dragon (Arisaema
dracontium).
·Red Buckeye (Aesculus pavia) is a shrubby
tree with vibrant-red flowers that attracts
hummingbirds. Five to six months after
blooming it forms a large, round, shiny
brown seed. Promptly gather and store
seeds in vermiculite and keep in the refrigerator
to over-winter and prevent rodent disturbance.
In spring, plant in protected deep
containers until established. Later, choose a
permanent site since buckeyes have long
taproots.
·American beautyberry (Callicarpa
americana) shrubs have insignificant pink
flowers but spectacular clusters of violet or
magenta berries in late summer/fall (and
winter in the Deep South). Brown seeds easily
germinate. Cuttings root well.
I'll share what I've gleaned from my own trial-and-error experience so you too can multiply spring wildflowers right in your own backyard.
First and foremost, woodland seeds need to be planted as soon as they ripen, while they are fresh. Unlike seeds of prairie natives, if woodland seeds dry out or lack moisture or good contact with the soil, they might not reproduce. Botanists label such seeds as hydrophilic. Many woodland seeds have an oily appendage called an elaiosome that attracts hungry bugs that then bury and plant the seeds. If that specific insect isn't nearby when seeds drop naturally to the forest floor or if the temperature is too warm, seeds can easily perish. Prompt planting by hand dramatically increases the success rate for woodland seeds.
Another thing to consider is that fleshy fruits sometimes contain seeds coated with germination inhibitors – a strange twist of a seed's fate. Luckily, a thorough rinsing might allow the seed to sprout and can mean the difference between a single seedling and a whole patch of green offspring.
Sean Watson, nursery manager for the Wildflower Center, has years of experience propagating a full range of native species. I asked Watson for his advice to gardeners wanting to grow wildflowers.
WILDFLOWER FACT Local, state and federal laws prohibit collecting seeds or plants from public gardens, parks or land owned by others. Obtain natives from friends, reputable growers and public garden plant sales. It is not only unethical but illegal to take natives from public gardens or land without permission.
"Lady Bird Johnson believed that each region's landscape looked its best with native plants. For instance, she felt Texas should look like Texas and not somewhere else. Therefore, we follow her vision of letting the natural landscape show its own beauty, and woodland plants play an important role," says Watson.
Watson shares pointers about the use of rooting hormones, sometimes needed when dividing rhizomes or making cuttings. He says, "We use Dip'N Grow, a liquid concentrate rooting hormone containing IBA [Indole-3-butyric acid] and store it in a refrigerator to keep it fresh. Rootone® powder works too. Both should be replaced every few years," Watson says.
Tip cuttings of american beautyberry [Callicarpa americana] root very easily, says Watson. In the spring and summer, Center horticulturists cut off 4-inch to 6- inch branch tips just below a node and remove two-thirds of the lower leaves. Next, they dip the cut end into Dip'N Grow for a few seconds and plant the branch in a mix of 50 percent perlite and 50 percent vermiculite. Many rhizome divisions and cuttings, however, root easily without any rooting hormone.
When the nursery at the Center propagates from seed, Watson says, "We plant woodland seeds as soon as they ripen, in most cases, such as the seed from the red buckeye (Aesculus pavia). The buckeye is one of the largest of our native seeds and often sprouts in a few weeks. When planting, we use this rule of thumb: Plant a seed as deep as a seed is wide."

WOODLAND NATIVES THRIVE in dappled shade and like moist, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Whether you have a tiny corner or a shaded perennial bed, you can start growing natives and their seeds. It's easy to experiment mixing natives and non-natives if their soil and sunlight requirements match.
To prepare a woodland bed:
· Study which plants thrive in your climate, soil
and sunlight conditions.
· In a shaded area, prepare the garden bed
ahead of time to allow soil to settle. Amend
with rotted leaves, compost or other organic
matter to replicate a natural habitat for plants
or seeds. Good air circulation is important,
but tilling surfaces troublesome dormant weed
seeds, so keep a careful eye on weeds and
use the least toxic method possible to eradicate
them.
· When planting seeds, scratch the soil lightly,
scatter seeds, cover with a little dirt, pat gently
and replace leaf litter. Water as needed,
particularly during dry seasons.
· Transplants and seeds benefit from organic
mulch. Shredded leaves help maintain soil
fertility, discourage weeds and conserve
moisture, so skip raking and allow autumn
leaves to remain. Avoid bark chips, which
can deplete nitrogen. The newer the chips,
the more they can rob the soil of nitrogen.
· Curb the use of leaf blowers as they can disturb
ripening seeds or uproot a newly planted
division.
·Remove invasive plants and aggressive
ground cover. Suppress your desire to overweed
but protect seedlings until they can be
distinguished from a weed.
As you learn how to harvest and plant mature seeds, being in the right place at the right time is crucial. Here are some general steps to help you succeed with propagating spring natives:

· Watch woodlanders closely to learn their
stages of development. Mark your calendar
when the flower bud opens. In many
cases, a berry or seedpod forms and
ripens four to six weeks after flowering.
Other fruits take months to mature.
Monitor the point where the faded
flower petals were attached because that
is where the pod or fruit will develop.
· Look for color changes and a softening of
the pod or berry. Use your fingers to gently
feel them soften, as with edible fruits.
A few weeks after the fruit forms, peel off
the skin of a berry or open a pod as a test.
Determine if seeds are the right color as
specified in whichever guide you consult
for advice on the particular plant.
· If seeds appear ripe, rinse or soak (if
required) and plant. Cover with forest litter
or leaf mulch. Water as needed, especially
during dry spells.
· Most seedlings emerge the following
spring – but a few species take two years
or more. Plant seeds near the "mother"
plant to keep track of them but be careful
to avoid overcrowding.
WILDFLOWER FACT Delicate woodland ephemerals bloom just a short time. Ephemeral's "fleeting" definition is apt because the blossoms quickly fade once the bright sunlight is blocked by unfolding tree leaves.
· To propagate a native, such as Solomon's seal or bloodroot, by division, carefully dig up and remove a portion of the plant. Use a clean knife to cut rhizomes into pieces that have a growth bud or two attached. It's optional to dust or dip the cuts in rooting hormone, but always replant at the same depth and orientation. Keep watered until the plant is established.William Cullina wrote in his book "Growing and Propagating Wildflowers" of the sensitivity that wildflower gardening fosters for the richness of life around us. "To catch a glimpse of this churning, odorous symphony, we need turn no further than the nearest puddle or log, and to feel that transcendent shiver of joy that comes from somewhere deep and sacred, we must only open ourselves to the little mysteries abounding within these small microcosms." Observing the fruit and learning the seedripening process will bring your enjoyment of wildflowers to a new level.
Jane Rogers is a nature photographer and garden lecturer from Ohio and volunteers at the Center affiliate, the Ohio Governor's Residence and Heritage Garden.
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