Ask Mr. Smarty Plants

Lupinus texensis

Don't overwater them. At the Wildflower Center we water them maybe an inch/month while it is still warm, then just leave them alone after it gets cool, unless it is an extremely dry winter (like the 2005-2006 winter) They may need slightly more to help them get established in very rocky or sandy soils, but after they get established, they will have very deep roots to tide them through.

Bluebonnets like tortured, overgrazed spots, so it would be good to open up the soil surface some, by really "gronching" the area before planting. They don't like it turfy. They love burned areas, but it is often more practical to just really abuse the area with a weedeater. Bluebonnet displays often grow better over a period of several years of establishment in one spot, but that spot often is not overly attractive during other seasons. After several seasons of bluebonnets on a given spot, they will have had ample opportunity to establish beneficial soil bacteria and build up the seed bank in the soil for future generations. One problem of trying to maintain bluebonnets in a small area is that the seeds shoot out of the pods to surprising distances, so it may be necessary to harvest the seed pods when they first turn dry and brown, to replant the seeds in your chosen spot.

The biggest problem for bluebonnets and many other wildflowers often is cool season exotic grasses, like Japanese brome, rescue grass, or the ryes. Keep an eye out for new grass seedlings coming up in the bluebonnet areas during the winter or very early spring. Since Fall and Winter are the crucial time for germination and establishment of most of our Texas wildflowers, eliminating or reducing competition from these cool season grasses can be very important for establishing and maintaining wildflower displays.