En EspaŅol

Q. Who is Mr. Smarty Plants?

A: There are those who suspect Wildflower Center volunteers are the culpable and capable culprits. Yet, others think staff members play some, albeit small, role. You can torture us with your plant questions, but we will never reveal the Green Guru's secret identity.

Help us grow by giving to the Plant Database Fund or by becoming a member

Did you know you can access the Native Plant Information Network with your web-enabled smartphone?

Share

Ask Mr. Smarty Plants

Ask Mr. Smarty Plants is a free service provided by the staff and volunteers at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center.

Search Smarty Plants
    
 
See a list of all Smarty Plants questions
Can't find the answer in our existing FAQs, submit a question to Mr. Smarty Plants.
Need help with plant identification, visit the plant identification page.
 
rate this answer
Not Yet Rated

Monday - March 28, 2005

From: Allentown, PA
Region: Northeast
Topic: Diseases and Disorders, Shrubs, Trees
Title: Smarty Plants on arborvitaes
Answered by: Joe Marcus

QUESTION:

Hello, I live in Allentown, PA and have a 7-foot arborvitae shrub in my backyard, planted in the corner of the yard where a wood fence intersects with the brick wall of the garage. I have had many plant species in that area so I assume that the soil is acceptably fertile. I softened the surrounding area where the hole was dug to ensure root penetration when I planted the shrub in Summer 2003 and the shrub gets significant water and has done well to this point. I have an identical arborvitae planted about 5 feet away. Recently I noticed that the leaves on back of the arborvitae that faces the wood fence/garage wall were all dried out and long dead. The front of the arborvitae seems perfectly fine, no discoloration, no loss of leaves; but the back is essentially bare after I finished pulling off all the dead leaves. While the identical species planted about 5 feet away does show small patches of dry dying leaves from time to time, overall it does fine. Any idea as to what this may be and how I can remedy it? Is this due to a lack of sunlight, a particular shrub disease, perhaps the cold winter? I've been told about 'nutrient spikes' that may help increase the nutrient intake. Are these recommended? It would be one thing if the entire shrub was drying out and dying, but its only a problem in the back of the shrub. Please help!

ANSWER:

Thank you for writing! The condition you describe sounds like winter injury, although there could be other causes as well. Here's what I think probably happened. Because your arborvitae is right next to a brick wall the conditions in the foliage of your plant within a few inches of the wall can be quite different than the conditions on the other side of the plant. Brick walls act as heat sinks, that is, they store heat on sunny days and radiate the stored heat at night or when it gets cloudy. The net effect for your arborvitae is that the foliage next to the wall probably did not acclimate to the colder conditions at the beginning of winter and was susceptible to freezing injury on the first really cold night of winter. If that night followed a sunny day, the effect would be especially pronounced. Very cold, very sunny days can have dramatic affects on even cold-hardy plants. Water stress at that time would exacerbate the problem. It is always a good idea to water your plants before a hard freeze if it occurs after a period of little or no rain.

There are some diseases that affect arborvitaes. Here is a link to a Penn State website with a very good section on Arborvitae Diseases. If you suspect a disease or insect problem I recommend taking a limb that includes both the affected area and some living tissue to your county extension agent for diagnosis.

I would not recommend using "nutrient spikes". In fact, you should never feed a stressed or diseased plant. It sounds like you have rich soil. Adding some compost when the plant begins to show new growth should be all your plant ever needs.

 

More Diseases and Disorders Questions

Tilling for grass under old live oak in San Antonio
April 15, 2012 - Hi, I have a 250+ year old Texas Live Oak. As usual, the lawn under the tree, after 18 years needs to be redone. MY QUESTION: to put down new sod the lawn company needs to till the soil about 4 t...
view the full question and answer

Cutting Back Perennials in the Fall?
November 13, 2013 - We have large beds of flowering native perennials that we planted around our house as part of a landscape conservation plan (various Joe-Pyes, goldenrods, turtlehead, blazing star, brown-eyed Susans)....
view the full question and answer

Stress on Goldenball leadtrees from Austin
June 07, 2014 - I know of two separate instances where young Goldenball Lead Trees (leucena retusa) have shown symptoms of defoliation and a bleeding of white sap from sores that have developed on the bark. The first...
view the full question and answer

Oak bark problems from Stillwater OK
May 14, 2012 - In my clients large oak tree there is bark stripped from the limbs in small pieces. No piece is larger than 1 inch by 1 inch and occurs on limbs high in the canopy. It does not look like squirrel doin...
view the full question and answer

Plants resistant to Verticillium wilt in Norco CA
September 24, 2009 - I'm looking for small trees, flowering shrubs & vines that are resistant to verticillium wilt. Fragrance would be a plus. Thank you so much!
view the full question and answer

Smarty Plants's Facebook profile Support the Wildflower Center by Donating Online or Becoming a Member today.

Mr. Smarty Plants wants you to be his Facebook friend. Click the Facebook icon to add yourself to Mr. Smarty Plants list of friends.
E-NEWSLETTER | BECOME A MEMBER | DONATE NOW | MEDIA | SITEMAP | STAFF
© 2015 Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center