Host an Event Volunteer Join Tickets

Support the plant database you love!

Q. Who is Mr. Smarty Plants?

A: There are those who suspect Wildflower Center volunteers are the culpable and capable culprits. Yet, others think staff members play some, albeit small, role. You can torture us with your plant questions, but we will never reveal the Green Guru's secret identity.

Help us grow by giving to the Plant Database Fund or by becoming a member

Did you know you can access the Native Plant Information Network with your web-enabled smartphone?

Share

Ask Mr. Smarty Plants

Ask Mr. Smarty Plants is a free service provided by the staff and volunteers at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center.

Search Smarty Plants
See a list of all Smarty Plants questions

Please forgive us, but Mr. Smarty Plants has been overwhelmed by a flood of mail and must take a break for awhile to catch up. We hope to be accepting new questions again soon. Thank you!

Need help with plant identification, visit the plant identification page.

 
rate this answer
Not Yet Rated

Thursday - July 03, 2008

From: Puyallup, WA
Region: Northeast
Topic: Non-Natives, Transplants
Title: Yellowing leaves on non-native Betula pendula
Answered by: Barbara Medford

QUESTION:

I live in Puyallup, Washington. I purchased and planted a weeping birch on June 21, 2008. For the first few days all seemed well and the tree seemed to be settling in to its new home. Less than eight days later, the leaves began yellowing pretty much all around the tree. I'm extremely concerned about the health and ability of the tree to survive. The leaves haven't fallen to the ground and the tree is still flexible. Can you please tell me what I can do to save my tree?

ANSWER:

Once again, we are seeing the result of "plant first, ask later." At the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, we constantly urge the use of native plants, because they are adapted to the conditions in which they live, and resistant to pests and diseases. This is a classic example. Please read this article from the USDA Forest Service on birch selection and care. Note the mention of Betula pendula in the chart on various species of the Betula.

Because this tree is a variant of the European white birch, and therefore not in our Native Plant Database, we have extracted this information from the TreeHelp.com website on Young's Weeping birch.

"Care
Transplanting should be done in early spring. Fertilize once or twice per year with a specially formulated fertilizer for Birch trees. Water to keep the soil wet or moist a few inches below the surface. Prune to maintain shape, but do not prune during the growing season. Rather, wait until the end of the growing season in the fall. This is especially important because the bronze birch borer is active during the spring and open pruning wounds are inviting to them.

Problems
Susceptible to birch leafminer and highly susceptible to bronze birch borer.

Iron deficiency may occur, especially in alkaline soils. This is evident by yellowing of the leaves. This problem is refered to as Chlorosis and can be treated by introducing iron tablets into the soil."

Obviously, you cannot go back and un-transplant your tree, and do it in the early Spring, but that was probably the biggest mistake. Any plant will go into transplant shock when it is moved, and moving it at the wrong time of year, especially in the summer, is going to be the biggest shock of all. At this point, it needs tender loving care. Begin by getting iron tablets into the soil immediately. Yellowing leaves indicates chlorosis. The birch does best in a slightly acidic soil; if the soil is alkaline, the roots are unable to access the trace elements in the soil, like iron, that the tree needs. Next, this is a tree that needs water, in fact, constant moisture in the soil. The root system is shallow, and evaporation alone will take a great deal of the necessary moisture away. Begin by pushing a hose into the soil around the tree, and letting a slow dribble go into the soil until water appears on the surface. Repeat this about every other day, probably for the entire summer. If the water then stands on the soil for more than 30 minutes, you probably have a clay, (and possibly alkaline) soil, which only adds to your problems. Working organic material into the soil around the plant will help neutralize the non-draining problems that clay creates, but this will be difficult to do without harming the tree roots.

Ordinarily, in transplant shock, we recommend trimming or pruning some of the top growth on the plant to relieve the pressure on the roots of getting water to all parts of the tree. However, in this case, do not prune. The birch leafminer and bronze birch borer, mentioned above, are active in warm weather, and will take advantage of any wound or cut to the bark to enter this tree. If the tree survives that long, trim in late Fall, taking out any dead limbs and shaping slightly.

Finally, mulch the tree roots thoroughly, with an organic mulch like shredded tree bark. This will help keep the roots cool, hold in the moisture, and protect the tree from damage from trimmers and lawnmowers. The organic mulch will slowly decompose and add nutrients and improve texture in the soil, so keep the mulching up. For further help, especially on insect pest control, contact your county extension agent at Washington State University Extension, Pierce County.

We do hope your little tree recovers and flourishes. If it does not, however, please consider replacing it with a tree native to your area, and planting it at an appropriate time. And be sure to properly prepare the hole in advance by adding organic materials, mixed with the existing soil, to futher aid in the successful transplanting. If you are determined to have a birch, we found the following four that are native to Washington State:

Betula occidentalis (water birch) - 20 to 30 ft. tall

Betula papyrifera (paper birch) - 50 to 75 ft. tall

Betula papyrifera var. papyrifera (paper birch)

Betula pumila (bog birch) - referred to as "shrub"


Betula occidentalis

Betula papyrifera

 

 

 

 

More Non-Natives Questions

Pruning Cuphea Plants
February 04, 2013 - The David Verity cuphea (cigar plants) that I planted last spring are now 3-4 feet high. I would like to move them, but before I do they seem to need pruning. All the branches are brown and dry lookin...
view the full question and answer

Getting flowers to grow under non-native globe willow in Salt Lake City
June 12, 2010 - We have a globe willow in our back yard that is about 15 years old and cannot get any flowers to grow under it. Can you recommend what we need to do to treat the soil, and what type of flowers will gr...
view the full question and answer

Eradicating non-native pyracantha bushes in California
August 26, 2008 - We removed several pyracantha bushes but they keep coming up in other parts of the garden. How do we kill the shoots? Thank you for any help
view the full question and answer

Rose bush varieties and time to plant from Hutto TX
October 31, 2013 - What rose bush varieties are recommended for the Hutto Texas area and what time of year is the best time to plant into ground? Thank you.
view the full question and answer

How to grow a non-native rue plant in Duncanville TX
March 15, 2010 - Can I grow a Rue plant from a clipping? If so, what do I need to do? Please explain step by step. I'm new to all of this. Thanks
view the full question and answer

Support the Wildflower Center by Donating Online or Becoming a Member today.