Host an Event Volunteer Join Tickets

Support the plant database you love!

Q. Who is Mr. Smarty Plants?

A: There are those who suspect Wildflower Center volunteers are the culpable and capable culprits. Yet, others think staff members play some, albeit small, role. You can torture us with your plant questions, but we will never reveal the Green Guru's secret identity.

Help us grow by giving to the Plant Database Fund or by becoming a member

Did you know you can access the Native Plant Information Network with your web-enabled smartphone?

Share

Ask Mr. Smarty Plants

Ask Mr. Smarty Plants is a free service provided by the staff and volunteers at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center.

Search Smarty Plants
See a list of all Smarty Plants questions

Please forgive us, but Mr. Smarty Plants has been overwhelmed by a flood of mail and must take a break for awhile to catch up. We hope to be accepting new questions again soon. Thank you!

Need help with plant identification, visit the plant identification page.

 
rate this answer
Not Yet Rated

Friday - June 12, 2015

From: Grinnell, IA
Region: Midwest
Topic: Non-Natives, Problem Plants
Title: How to Deal With Goutweed?
Answered by: Anne Van Nest

QUESTION:

Hi, I'm wondering what plants (groundcover) would best compete against goutweed. It's coming up all around some existing potentilla shrubs and some nice bulbs and prairie perennials. I would hate to tear up the garden and solarize the soil or something similarly drastic. So, in addition to pouring some strong vinegar and dumping several inches of wood chips over the weed, what can I do or plant? Thank you!

ANSWER:

Well, as you suspect goutweed or Bishop's weed (Aegopodium podagraria) is a real menace! Goutweed is native to Eurasia but has been introduced around the world as an ornamental plant and has now become an invasive exotic plant. And the variegated version isn't much better.

Here's what a couple of experts at the UBC Botanical Garden say about the plant in answer to a gardener's (Gayle) request for ideas on how to remove it that was published in The Vancouver Sun online. It doesn't matter where goutweed grows it acts in the same invasive way ...

On Gayle’s behalf, I consulted the experts at the UBC Botanical Garden. Douglas Justice teaches in the landscape architectureprogram and is the curator of collections for the botanical garden. Douglas responds, thusly: Aegopodium podagraria. Pernicious as hell. Copious seeds and elastic rhizomes. Tolerates any kind of soil and full sun to heavy shade. Drought tolerant in deep soil. Only need a tiny rhizome piece to start a whole new colony. Dig it out and the roots go deeper. Very frustrating. Like other aggressive runners, extraction/elimination requires wholesale (though not necessary permanent) change to the affected area. Converting the area to turf for three years or very heavy mulching (leaf mould, chips, whatever, at 20 to 30 cm deep) are two approaches that can be effective.

Unless [nearby] plants are woody and relatively large, they should be lifted, cleaned thoroughly and put aside or planted elsewhere (obviously, this has to be done when plants are dormant). Deep mulching encourages the goutweed rhizomes to find a higher plane, which, if the mulch is kept loose, makes extraction relatively simple, but the removal must be religious. A maintained sward of good turf (start with sod, not seed) will starve/exhaust/prevent regrowth. Rhizomes will be completely dead after three years; however, when returning the area to planting bed, seedlings may be an issue.

Otherwise, the plants are apparently “medicinal” and the new shoots edible.

I also received a response from the UBC Botanical Garden Hortline:

Indeed, “goutweed” is a real challenge to remove. As Douglas mentioned it will be very important to remove any lingering goutweed roots from your existing plants because they regenerate quickly even if you dig them up and place elsewhere in your garden they will soon send out new shoots. I was able to eradicate a small area of my vegetable garden by digging down 2 1/2 feet, removing all the roots of goutweed (as well as the plants) and allow the area to sit fallow for 6 months covered with black plastic. After six months I brought in new soil and re-planted. After 2 years there has been no return of goutweed.

For what it’s worth, the best way I have found to eliminate really difficult weed infestations is by solarizing. Cover the area with a sheet of black plastic and let the sun cook everything.

 

More Non-Natives Questions

Indoor plants for El Paso TX
January 05, 2013 - I want to know what kind of plants will survive indoors in El Paso. It is so dry here, is there anything leafy or flowery that will thrive indoors in this climate?
view the full question and answer

Will Mountain Laurels be harmed by juglones from my pecan tree?
May 06, 2009 - Hi. I just bought a house. It has a big pecan tree at the edge of the front lawn next to the street. I guess it's about 25 feet from the front of the house. I was thinking of planting mountain la...
view the full question and answer

Non-native Chamaedorea cataractarum question from Somerset MA
February 12, 2010 - I have a Chamaedorea Cataractarum palm and I was wondering what a clumping palm is. From what part of the plant do the new fronds emerge? Was trying to look all over the web but can't find it. If you...
view the full question and answer

Removing a non-native windmill palm from Austin
February 27, 2013 - I have a fairly good size windmill palm (about 15ft high) that is planted too close to the house. I also don't like having to constantly remove its fronds as they block a walkway. Is there a good wa...
view the full question and answer

Disease in non-native pittisporum in Central Texas
July 13, 2008 - Is there a disease in central Texas (Round Rock) affecting dwarf pittosporum? Specifically, clusters of dead leaves and much leaf drop. Some white, cottony residue on wood but not sure if it is mealyb...
view the full question and answer

Support the Wildflower Center by Donating Online or Becoming a Member today.